Spring is definitely here, and it’s visible everywhere. It feels like every tree and bush is in full bloom. Daffodils are popping up all over, and the tulips are just starting to peek through. The scenery has been absolutely gorgeous, but oddly, it’s still been quite cold. Temperatures have barely climbed out of the 40s, and it even snowed on Thursday night.
We made it through the short week at home. School let out Wednesday for Spring Break, and we are all so happy to have survived another school quarter; just one more to go!
On Friday, we set off for our spring break trip to Ireland, where our dear friends from the U.S., Megan, Patrick, and their family, were meeting us in Dublin. Germany had recently introduced a new passport control system, and we had been hearing horror stories about long airport lines. Since we had an early flight, we did not want to risk both a long drive and potential traffic, along with the possibility of a lengthy wait at the airport.
We decided at the last minute to drive up to Frankfurt and stay overnight at a hotel the night before. While this meant rushing a bit to get everything ready and making a late drive after German class, it made the morning much more relaxing. I usually find some excuse to delay packing until we are practically walking out the door, but leaving the night before did not give me that option this time. Waking up and enjoying a short, calm drive to the airport was wonderful, and I know we will definitely be doing this again.
We arrived in Dublin around noon and headed straight to the hotel to meet up with Megan and Pat. We had a super sweet reunion and then set out on our adventure, stopping for a quick snack before heading to our first outing, Dublin Castle.
Dublin Castle has stood at the heart of the city for centuries. Originally built in the 13th century as a defensive fortress for the Normans, it later evolved into the administrative center of British rule in Ireland. Today, it serves as a major government complex and cultural site, hosting state events, presidential inaugurations, and exhibitions, while also welcoming visitors to explore its historic State Apartments and grounds. It started drizzling just as we entered the castle, so we were especially glad to be indoors touring the State Rooms. By the time we emerged, the rain had passed, and it was bright and sunny again.
After the castle, we walked just down the street to Christ Church Cathedral. This stunning medieval cathedral, founded in the 11th century, is one of Dublin’s oldest buildings and a centerpiece of the city’s history. Inside, the floors are especially striking, with beautiful gold, orange, and green tiles that seem to glow in the light, giving the entire space a warm and vibrant feel.
Perhaps the most interesting attraction, though, is found below in the crypt: the famous mummified cat and rat. Discovered during an organ renovation, they were found stuck inside one of the pipes and are estimated to be over 500 years old. It’s believed the cat was chasing the rat when the rat darted into the pipe and the cat followed, leaving them both trapped for centuries; an oddly fascinating snapshot of a long-ago chase.
After Christ Church Cathedral, we continued down the street to Saint Patrick’s Cathedral. As Ireland’s largest cathedral, it dates back to the 12th century and is dedicated to the country’s patron saint. The interior is grand yet peaceful, filled with soaring arches and rich history. One particularly memorable feature is the Hall of Flags, where historic banners from Irish regiments; now in varying stages of decay; hang overhead, serving as a tribute to those who served and a place of remembrance for soldiers who lost their lives.
The cathedral also features the Ladies Chapel, which is equally striking, with beautiful stained glass windows that fill the space with soft, colorful light, along with another intricately tiled floor; though I didn’t think it quite competed with the one at Christ Church.
By the time we were done at St. Patrick’s, we were starving, so went in search of dinner. Since we were already so close, we sought out the Brazen Head, Dublin’s oldest pub, dating back to 1198. With its low ceilings, stone walls, and cozy atmosphere, it feels like stepping back in time. We all ordered Irish beers and chicken wings; which were so good they quickly became a staple for the rest of the trip. It was the perfect place to relax and catch up.
By that point, the kids were getting tired. The O’Rourkes had already flown transatlantic the night before and missed a full night of sleep, so we decided to walk them back to the hotel and get them settled into bed. Once the kids were tucked in, the adults headed across the street to The Piper’s Corner for some traditional Irish music and a few more beers; the perfect way to wind down after our first day in Dublin.
The next morning, we were up bright and early for a full day. We started at Trinity College Dublin with a tour of the Book of Kells, a beautifully illustrated manuscript created by Celtic monks around the 9th century. It contains the four Gospels of the New Testament and is famous for its intricate, colorful designs and remarkable craftsmanship.
After the Book of Kells, we toured the Long Room at Trinity College, which is famous for its stunning barrel vaulted ceiling and its collection of over 200,000 of the library’s oldest books, lining the shelves from floor to ceiling. The Long Room also featured a huge illuminated globe suspended from the ceiling, called Gaia, which was really cool. Afterward, we had a little time to walk around the Trinity College campus before heading to meet our walking tour.
We joined a tour led by Barry that took us all over the city of Dublin. We quickly discovered that the Irish really like to use the ‘F’ word, as he used it quite regularly and without much notice or emphasis, which made it pretty funny. The tour brought us back past highlights like the castle and cathedrals we had seen the day before, as well as Dublin Garden, St Stephen’s Green, and the Temple Bar area. Barry shared great information and background about Irish history, including the period known as The Troubles, as well as insights into modern day Ireland. The tour ran from 11 to 2, with only a quick beer break halfway through, so we were starving by the time it wrapped up.
Nando’s was just around the corner from where the tour ended, and since it is one of our favorite UK restaurant chains, we enjoyed a delicious peri peri chicken lunch before walking back to the Temple Bar area to explore a bit more and do some shopping. It was a sunny day in Dublin, so the area was absolutely packed.
After wandering around, we began the long walk to the Guinness Storehouse, located a bit outside the main city center in the St. James’s Gate Brewery area. The Storehouse is one of Dublin’s most popular attractions, offering a multi level, interactive tour that walks visitors through the history of Guinness, the brewing process, and the brand’s iconic advertising.
At the end of the tour, we headed up to the Gravity Bar at the top of the building to redeem our free drink vouchers. Of course, we had to have a Guinness. I have to admit it was not my favorite, but Matt and Pat really enjoyed theirs. Afterward, we made the long walk back to the hotel, about a mile, and by the end of the day, we had each logged around 25,000 steps.
We stopped at a pub close to our hotel called Slattery’s, and it turned out to be a spot Anthony Bourdain had visited on his show The Layover, which definitely made it more exciting for us. We had another pub dinner, of course with more chicken wings, before heading back to the hotel to finish the evening with cards and wine in the lobby.
The next morning, we were up bright and early. Matt and Patrick took a taxi to pick up our rental van from the airport, while Megan and I stayed at the hotel with the kids to finish packing. The guys returned with the van without any problems, and soon we were on the road, leaving Dublin behind and heading into the rolling Irish countryside. Our first planned stop was the Rock of Cashel, a medieval castle perched halfway between Dublin and Ireland’s south coast.
Our drive, however, took an unexpected turn. While cruising along the highway at about seventy-five miles per hour, we heard a sudden boom and felt the van lurch. We had blown a tire. It was a first for us and, admittedly, a little scary. Luckily, we were able to call the rental agency, and roadside assistance arrived within an hour. After another thirty minutes of changing the tire, we were back on the road. The mishap meant we had to skip a proper visit to the Rock of Cashel, though we did catch a quick glimpse as we drove past before continuing on to Cobh.
By the time we arrived in Cobh, we were starving and ready for lunch. We chose an unusual pub that served a mix of traditional pub fare and Japanese food. Some of us opted for sushi, while others went for classic pub dishes. With our appetites satisfied, it was time for the Titanic Experience.
Cobh was the final Irish port of call for the Titanic, and the old White Star Line building still stands on the waterfront as a museum. Walking along the pier where passengers once boarded was surprisingly moving. Each of us received a passenger card and followed their journey to see who survived. Most of our assigned passengers did not. The museum itself is compact and touristy, but it is still worth visiting for the history and the views. Afterward, we strolled along Kennedy Pier, taking in the sweeping waterfront vistas.
Before leaving Cobh, we stopped at Westview Gardens, where the famously colorful row of houses known as the Deck of Cards sits with Cobh Cathedral as a dramatic backdrop for some photos. We all loved Cobh, and it was a wonderful stop along our journey.
After that, we made the final leg of our drive to Kinsale, the jumping-off point for the Wild Atlantic Way along the south coast.
When we arrived in Kinsale, the kids wanted to rest at the hotel, but the afternoon was still young, so the adults went out for a walk around town. We wandered along the harbor and through the old town, admiring the brightly painted buildings and houses. While most Irish towns have colorfully painted houses, Kinsale took things to the next level with some neon painted buildings, which were actually very pretty.
We wanted to stop for a drink in the oldest pub in town, but it was difficult to determine which one that was based on internet research, so we decided to visit both. We started at The Tap Tavern, which had also been featured on Rick Steves, adding a fun layer of travel cred for Megan and me. Afterwards, we visited the Greyhound. The sun was out, so we took our drinks outside onto the square.
We all found Kinsale to be charming, with its harbor and brightly colored streets. It was the perfect place to break up our drive and spend the night, allowing us to enjoy the smaller towns more than we would in larger cities. I would definitely recommend staying here to anyone planning a trip along the south coast of Ireland.
Afterwards, we grabbed the kids from the hotel and headed out for dinner at JM Reidy’s, another classic Kinsale pub. With bellies full, we wanted to catch some live music. The kids were ready for bed, so we dropped them off at the hotel and started the evening in the hotel lounge, where a live singer entertained us. When her set ended around nine, we crossed the street to Kitty O’Shea’s, where traditional Irish music filled the pub and we wrapped up the night. It was a perfect start to our Irish adventure!
Gilcrests Abroad 